Training Block 2 - 2023

I recently finished a 4 week (4 cycle) strength block. After the last block, I wanted to increase intensity and drop volume to focus on building strength.

Overall, I'd say I am feeling stronger, but I think the results of this block are a bit mixed. I think my big mistake was hoping that with the capacity block that just happened, I could keep up a pretty high workout cadence while increasing load. I tried twice to schedule back to back power -> endurance days, as in my mind, endurance is so submaximal that I could still do it after a power day. I was wrong both times. I think this inadvertently dug a hole, meaning that other sessions felt more blah. I plan on dialing back the volume next block.

Other take aways: 3-6-9 ladders are really cool, but I don't think I'm being enough of an adult and trying to own a weight before moving up.

Where am I at?
I’m exiting the previous block feeling pretty good. Good is hard to quantify, so I’ll do my best: Workouts are no longer giving me any sense of soreness, the prescribed exercise do not feel difficult the way they did at the beginning, my skin is starting to come back, and I’m slowly but surely relearning how to keep foot tension, keep the hips open and close to the wall, and general full body tension.

Guiding Principles for planning:
Build on the capacity block that just occurred. I’m not sure though how to keep capacity up, especially with yosemite in sight, while also increasing the strength ceiling. I think this would be a good opportunity to move into a traditional strength block. Outdoor days are few and far between around this time of the year, but I plan on getting out for some bouldering or systems practice if I can.
What do I want to accomplish?
- Build on the strength capacity block.
- Build a strong finger base to move into a specific strength
Cycle Length: 4 cycles, alternating through strength - power - endurance

The Program

Strength

- 20m Warmup Routine
- 30m skills level climbing (if I have the time)
- Integrated Strength Circuit
    - **Circuit A**
        - 3-6-9 Ladder, open hand
        - Deadlift, 6-8 reps
        - Frog Stretch, 60s
    - **Circuit B**
        - 3-6-9 Ladder, Half Crimp 25mm
        - Bench Press, 6-8 reps
        - Pigeon Stretch 30s+30s
    - **Circuit C**
        - 3-6-9 Ladder, 3 finger drag
        - Rack Front Squat x6-8
        - Pull Up x6-8
        - Kneeling hip flexor stretch 30s+30s

Power

- 20m warmup
- 60 minutes Limit bouldering
- 3x2 Power Circuit - could be fun to bring the Vitruve.
    - **3x Circuit A**
        - Box Jump x5-8
        - Power Pushup x5-8
        - Frog Stretch
    - **3x Circuit B**
        - Barbell Jump squat x3-4
        - Kettlebell snatch x5-8
        - Kneeling hip flexor stretch

Endurance

- Let’s continue with the EE circuits.
- **Extensive Endurance intervals**
- 4x circuits
    - 5 minutes on the rowing machine, maintaining a zone 2 heart rate.
    - 5 minutes of continuous climbing
    - 5 minutes rest

Full Retro

- 🙂
    - Feeling progressively stronger and stronger, finger recruitment is up!
    - Feeling some payoff from the mobility sessions!
    - Moonboard problems aren’t feeling easier, but definitely starting to get closer to the holds
    - 2x3 Power is really cool, although oh my god the barbell squat jumps hurt, I need to ask my gym to get a pad.
- 😐
    - Upper body strength feels like a limiter, although its getting better. I have a couple of moonboard videos where I’m latched on a high hold, and do a low hand foot match, and you can tell that I struggle pulling through the next hold. I can’t really crimp at 140 degrees and pull it all the way to 90 degrees one armed.
    - Only 4 hangboard sessions in a month feels a bit meh? I know it’s for the best, but if I’m aiming for Lander as the big goal, I should probably be focusing more on prepping the fingers.
    - Left shoulder is feeling like a weak link. I can’t quite explain it, but apparently what I’m experiencing is a weak rotator cuff. High gastons feel a bit tweaky,
    - I have not done the 2x3 power thing twice because I end up being kind of zapped post moonboard, or just not motivated, so should really move that to the front end.
- 🙁
    - I found that I had a couple of difficult sessions mentally. Looking at my notes, one of my power days started on the moonboard, was not having fun, moved to the decoy, still no fun, and ended up with an unfocused session. Big letters "this really sucked"
        - **Scheduling an EE day after a power day is always a disaster. Skin hurts, just feel zapped. Don’t make this mistake again.**
    - I’m not sure I like the 3 cycle system that much. It just feels a bit too unfocused, especially when I’m not getting outside that often. It makes sense when I’m getting out regularly on weekends, but it’s still pretty grim out here.
    - 3 finger pocket on the rock prodigy does not feel great to train, like so much of it is hanging off my skin. I should switch to a 20-25mm edge
    - Plastic pinches feel so weak! Forever a weakness
    - I think I’m really introducing too much fatigue.